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On soft ground,
sand tracks, and muddy tracks, you want more compression damping force front and rear. On harder ground you want to run less
compression damping.
Sand tracks require a bit more rebound damping as well. The bumps are usually bigger, but
have more distance between them so the shock has more time to recover. And you dont want the rear to kick up in the sand!
The spring force requirements probably wont change much between a hard track and a sand track. You may want a little
stiffer front suspension setting for sand tracks to help keep the front end up and improve straight-line stability.
In a mud race, you want a stiffer spring front and rear because your machine becomes heavier with the mud sticking to it.
If you dont compensate for the additional weight of the mud that collects during the race, then your machine will be undersprung.
The suspension will compress too far into the stroke most of the time and the bike woll not hook up.
If it is a
fast, hard track with no large jumps, you can probably run the same springs as normal, but run sofer damping in both the front
and the rear. (Compression and Rebound Damping) If you run softer rebound damping, the wheel will follow the rough ground
and small bumps much better, and you will hook up better. With a lot of rebound damping, the wheel returns very slowly and
doesnt contact the ground quickly enough after each bump. The result is a loss of traction and slower lap times.
Higher Gearing (Less sprocket teeth) will produce less power to the ground and allow the rear wheel to hook up when the
track is slippery (sandy,wet,loose dirt on clay base, etc.)
Lower Gearing (More sprocket teeth) will produce more
power to the ground and allow you to utilize maximum traction conditions.
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